UPDATE: The contest is now closed for entries. Thank you for your photos, and please check back soon for honorable mentions and semifinalists for YOU to vote on!
Photo by Brandi Simons
Don’t forget! Today (Monday 12/9) is the last day to enter your photos in the 2013 Mochimochi Photo Contest—photos added to our Flickr group after midnight (Pacific time) won’t be eligible for the contest. But if you just can’t help being late, don’t fret! All photos added after midnight automatically will be entered in next year’s contest.
Once all your photos are in, John and I will carefully look over all the entries, and do the difficult task of selecting honorable mentions, and then our semifinalists, which we will ask you to give us your input on. And next week we’ll have the final vote for everyone to participate in. So be sure to check back here for all the photo fun!
Here’s a project that got put on hold for way too long: my unnamed arcade mochi! He sat unfinished on top of my yarn drawers for a good two months before somehow making it through the move to Chicago without unraveling. It felt so good to pick this guy up again and finish the prototype yesterday!
(I really need to start putting things on my office walls—yuck!)
I don’t usually make prototypes for my designs, but I wanted to get the shape of this one just right before adding colorwork and other details. (The pink rectangle was just to help me see where the top front panel will go.) I’ve had second and third thoughts about the final colors, and now I’m anti-black and trying to decide if he’ll be orange, red, pink, or some shade of blue. Or who knows, maybe even green! Pretty much any color but black is what I’m thinking right now.
While I think about colors, I’m getting started on the color chart for the sides and back of this guy. Just getting ready to make a design takes some time, but now I think I have the correct number of squares to work with.
I use Illustrator to make my charts—it can be time-consuming (especially when I forgot how Illustrator works, as I often do), but I like the control that I have and the way that I can easily fill in squares with the Paint Bucket tool.
The thing that really motivated to continue with this design is the toy design class I taught at the Lion Brand Yarn Studio last month. I’ve already gotten updates from several of the people who took the class and went on to finish their designs! I hope to teach this kind of class again soon—it was really inspiring, and I may have learned just as much as everyone else.
In case you haven’t been following along, here are my earlier posts in this series:
I’ll be back with another design update soon(ish)!
Looking for something quick and spooky to knit this month? I’ve got some ideas for you! (See below for names and links.)
Little Miss Widow, Hurly-Burly, and Bitty Witches (and more—from Super-Scary Mochimochi)
Some nice knitters who got early copies have let me know (nicely) about a few problems.
Page 70, Baby Cakes’ Frosting
After Row 122 in the frosting section, this sentence should be added:
Break the yarn and draw it tightly through the stitches with a tapestry needle.
Page 90, Roland’s Shell
This is how the section should read:
With A, cast on 37 stitches onto the circular needle to work flat.
Row 1: Sl1, p to last st, sl1.
Row 2: K4, [p1, k3] 8 times, k1.
Rows 3-7: Work in established rib for 5 rows, slipping the first and last stitches on the odd-numbered rows.
Row 8: K4, m1, [p1, k3, m1] 8 times, k1 (46 sts).
Rows 9-13: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 14: K5, m1, [p1, k4, m1] 8 times, k1 (55 sts).
Rows 15-19: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 20: K6, m1, [p1, k5, m1] 8 times, k1 (64 sts).
Rows 21-25: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 26: K7, m1, [p1, k6, m1] 8 times, k1 (73 sts).
Rows 27-31: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 32: K8, m1, [p1, k7, m1] 8 times, k1 (82 sts).
Rows 33-43: Work as established for 11 rows.
Row 44: K7, k2tog, [p1, k6, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (73 sts).
Rows 45-49: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 50: K6, k2tog, [p1, k5, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (64 sts).
Rows 51-55: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 56: K5, k2tog, [p1, k4, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (55 sts).
Rows 57-61: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 62: K4, k2tog, [p1, k3, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (46 sts).
Rows 63-67: Work as established for 5 rows.
Row 68: K3, k2tog, [p1, k2, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (37 sts).
Rows 69-74: Work as established for 6 rows.
Row 75: Sl1, p to last st, sl1.
Bind off all stitches.
And the book is missing the explanation for m1.
If you spot any other problems with the patterns in this book or in any of my patterns, please get in touch! Sometimes mistakes that seem obvious get missed by lots of people, and you may be the first to tell me about it.
I think I figured out why my squishy arcade guy was staring at me so hard: there was something weird about his face! I got the feeling that something in particular was stopping me from taking the next step in designing, and when I thought about it, his screen seemed just a tad on the small side. So I took a few minutes to give him a face transplant.
I’ll probably make the final version in a different color, but I wanted to focus on the size and shape for now. All I did was take out the black border that originally framed the screen, and extended the screen by six stitches and six rows. It’s a closer match to my original sketches, which I think are important to refer back to throughout the design process. I’m feeling better having made this change, and now hopefully I can move forward again with this guy.